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The beautiful history of the Smiths De Luxe

  • author
  • Dec 4, 2023
  • 4 min read

If I began this blog by asking, have you heard of this brand called Rolex? Things would take a definitive turn in an alternate direction, compared to if I asked the same thing about Smiths.


Interestingly, if I asked you that very same question back in early June of 1953, I'm sure there would be a near equal level of recognition.


The Race to Summit Everest


For the more seasoned horologists amongst you, the title of this article and the year 1953 might have already set off alarm signals in your brain.

"Finally! My obscure knowledge of the race for a watch to summit Everest has been activated, it was all worth it!".

For the more normal amongst you, let me gently set the scene.


Everest is the highest point on Planet Earth. It's peak rests at a sickening 8,848.86m above sea level. Naturally, there has, and always will be a small percentage of the Human Race that wishes to achieve the things that the remaining percentage of the population simply dismiss as being impossible.

Summitting Everest is a quintessential example of this.


Since the early 1920's, brave people have been plotting and planning routes to try and climb this beast of a mountain. There is an entirely rich history within that statement, but this site is dedicated to watches, not mountaineering, I'm sure somebody else out there can much more succinctly share that story. It is one which culminated in 1953, with the British Mount Everest expedition, led by Colonel John Hunt, which saw Tenzing Norgay and Sir Edmund Hillary summit.


Obviously, a trip to the highest point on Earth requires a lot of equipment, reliable, well-built and where fitting, stylish too. The two main brands involved in supplying watches to this expedition were Smiths and Rolex (there are a few honourable mentions of course, of other watches worn on the expedition by other team members).


Rolex, founded by Hans Wilsdorf, produce fine watches and have often been at the forefront of technical (innovation), at least improving upon it and marketing it anyway. They are known for their slick advertising, and aiming to get their watches clearly on the wrist of people who achieve fantastic things. Of course, taking a Rolex to the highest point on Earth is a fitting, and almost too good to be true embodiment of this.


Smith and Sons. were founded in, and died in England. (They've been somewhat resurrected recently, but that's a whole debate on it's own). They were not so lucky to survive the Quartz movement. At one point in time, the 1930s, Smiths became the largest clock producer in Britain. Before then, the British watch industry was giant, holding 50% of the global market. Shortly before, and then during the Second World War, it was important for the British to keep accurate time, amongst other equipment, the British had to start making things "in-house". Watches and clocks included.

In 1939, Smiths opened their now infamous first Cheltenham factory, imaginatively named as CH1, it would be from there that Smiths eventually sent 13 watches on the expedition, and Sir Edmund Hillary has stated in writing:


"I carried your watch to the summit. It worked perfectly"


Of course, it is a fantastic debate about whether a Smiths watch or a Rolex watch summited Everest. I believe there are only two statements which really matter though. The one listed above, and an excerpt from a letter written by the Managing Director of Rolex in 1953, published in Page 651 of the BHI Horological Journal, stating:


"It is a good thing that British watches have been associated in such a fine way with a British - and successful - ascent of Mount Everest... If by chance, Sir Edmund Hillary's watch did not reach him, or if he was not wearing it in his ascent of the last few hundreds of feet, then we regret that our first advertisements in connection with Everest suggested the contrary. It would appear from Mr. Barrett's letter that Sir Edmund Hillary was in fact only wearing one watch at the summit and that a Smiths watch. We congratulate Smiths on the fact their Smiths De Luxe reached the summit"


Consider me sold.


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There are some incredibly in-depth blog posts over at https://forum.tz-uk.com/showthread.php?461361-Smiths-were-the-only-watches-worn-on-the-summit-of-Everest-in-53-The-proof and https://www.outdoorjournal.com/featured/opinion-editorial/rolex-vs-smiths-which-watch-summited-everest-in-1953-putting-a-controversy-to-rest/ which I thoroughly enjoyed reading and researching before my most recent purchase of one of these watches. Meticulously researched, unbiased, and incredibly informative.


Unfortunately for Smiths, Rolex capitalised on this achievement in the most efficient, and lasting way. Now, when someone says Rolex you instantly know them. Whether you're aware of it or not, a lot of that stems down to the fact that they were so quick to the mark in claiming to have summited Everest. And since then, they have exhibited a continuous masterclass in marketing, watchmaking and branding, and have grown to become one of the most recognisable brands in the World.


But, fortunately for us, the people passionate about watches and their rich history, you can wear on your wrist, an identical movement (minus some specially made oil) that was taken to the highest point on Earth, the Summit of Mount Everest. And unlike a Rolex, you won't have to put a house deposit down to own it.



That brings me nicely to my latest collection addition, a Smiths De Luxe from 1955. It houses the Cal 400. 1215 movement, made in Cheltenham. The exact same one on Sir Edmund Hillary's wrist that fateful day. This small, 31mm mechanical watch carries a rich history unlike many others. A timepiece that transcends it's robust mechanical intricacies to become a relic of triumph and human endeavour. Someday, when it's 11:30AM, I will look at this watch and feel an instant connection to that moment, a moment frozen in History, and it will not be forgotten.

The Omega Speedmaster conquered the moon, and the English Made Smiths De Luxe conquered Everest.




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